Iwate, Three Remarkable People

The land is quite different from Miyagi and Fukushima. Rather than a large flat plain between the ocean and the mountains, Iwate’s mountains seem to rise up directly from the sea. Hence, there is only a very narrow lip of land available for human habitation. Of course, when the tsunami hit, as everywhere it did a superlative job of destroying everything in its path. It did not stop until it had gobbled everything in its path. And in southern Iwate it went further. It reshaped the entire coastline and even the width and direction of riverbeds.

Since then, a lot of work has gone into clearing up and rebuilding. The same is true in other places, too, but there is a difference. Fukushima is still hindered by the ongoing nuclear problem. And in some places, Miyagi fishermen have been fighting the exceedingly high government-proposed tsunami wall. Those men, who know the sea well, believe that monstrous intrusion will interfere with tidal currents and fish runs.

But in Iwate, at least in Kamaishi City in the south, people seem to be more compliant. The new tsunami wall is a given, and the raising of the entire inhabitable area is progressing nicely. Actually, the feeling of solid progress we felt there may also have been because Akiko and I talked to people who were more or less getting back on their feet. They were not to where they had before the disaster, but they did have their businesses running, and they still had dreams.

(However, friends who offer stress-reduction workshops in orphanages further north say that the stress levels among employees there are higher than that of firemen.)

Likewise, Kamaishi City has a long history of iron and steel manufacturing. The factory buildings were sturdy enough to withstand much of the impact of the earthquake and tsunami. So, the economy in that town was able to catch hold sooner than in other parts of Tohoku.

Land is acutely scarce here. And that makes housing a crucial issue. So, everyone, from individuals to government officials, has been working to find solutions to this very critical problem. One choice has been to raise the entire level of the land by several meters. As that phenomenal task is being implemented, the damaged parts of the city are slowly being rebuilt on that newly made higher ground.

  

Besides raising the land, nearby mountains are being denuded of trees and leveled on top. The hope is that these will become areas for small communities. By doing this, hopefully, people will stay in the area, and maybe even come back. So many have left already.

On this trip to Iwate, Akiko and I were privileged to talk to several impressive individuals. The first was a man named Kikuta San. 

   

He owned a small noodle restaurant, called Kikuya. He made his dishes in a special way, so the taste was particularly delicious. 

He had been in business before 03/11, and had been well known. Because of the nature of his work – food that is quickly cooked, nutritious, inexpensive, and tasty – he was able to reopen his establishment relatively quickly.  When we were there, it was full of businessmen popping in for a speedy lunch.

“This place used to be known for its beautiful beaches,” he told us. “People came all the way from Tokyo or further south for a relaxing vacation. That isn’t happening now, of course. But we’re all hoping things will come round and we’ll have reliable businesses again.”

The next person we chatted with was a woman named Matsuda San. She owned and ran a small coffee shop. Her establishment was in a converted “kura”. A “kura” is a traditional stone storage building associated with a wealthy person’s home. It was separated from the main house, which was made of wood. Family heirlooms, such as fine kimonos, jewelry, and rare china, were protected from fire or flooding by being kept in a “kura”.

Matsuda San was a very sensitive lady, still fragile from all she had been through. 

“I still live in temporary housing,” she told us. “I can’t stay here. It’s downtown with no one around at night. So I wouldn’t feel safe. I worry a lot, but I am doing my best.” As with most coffee shops in Japan, the customers were mostly students or women friends coming in for a chat.

The third person – or rather persons – we met were a husband and wife team. 

The third person – or rather persons – we met were a husband and wife team. His gracious spouse helped to oversee all the nurseries and kindergartens in Kamaishi City. Together they had created a lovely English-style garden on their property. After the trauma of 03/11 and because of the ongoing stress everyone is still feeling, they opened their land for people to come and relax. They also made a small library of children’s books, in several languages. A woman came to offer yoga sessions on the lawn among the flowers. “We think renewal of spirit is equally as important as rebuilding the physical. So we focus on that aspect of the repair work now going on.”

Indeed the spiritual, including the mental and emotional, are paramount these days. And all of these good souls are doing what they can to help their communities and find stability within themselves as well.

Love,
Anne