500 Years

Dear Family and Friends,

My friend Izumi is imaginative and very creative. Because of that, interesting things seem to come to her naturally. And because of who she is, she most often says yes to the many opportunities coming her way. Very kindly, she sometimes invites me to join her. Recently, she asked me to a very special Buddhist ceremony.

The paternal side Izumi’s family follows the Soto Sect of Buddhism. Although her father is buried near his country home, the family is now a member of a temple in Sendai. It is called Genkoan (玄光庵). 

This year is very important for that temple. It turned 500 years old. That privilege must be honored. In addition, the head priest had recently died. So, his memorial service was part of the day’s events. 

Priests and parishioners came from far and wide for this rare occasion. And Izumi, very thoughtfully, asked me to go with her.

Izumi expected us to be in the main hall. However, since so many attended, it was open only to priests and family members. The rest of us were in a separate building, where the service was broadcast live on large screens.

When we arrived, Izumi asked where I would like to sit. “Up front, of course. That way we can see better,” I replied. Later, Izumi whispered to me that as a Japanese she felt embarrassed to be in such a prominent place. But then a gentleman and his wife sat next to us, so she felt less conspicuous.

I was fascinated that most of the priests wore a robe of olive yellow over the usual black attire. I had never seen that before. So, I wondered if it were for this special day. But Izumi told me that it showed their rank of priesthood. 

However, the current head priest of the temple wore different colors according to which part of the ceremony he was performing.

The ceremony had four parts. The first was the longest. The priests walked in a circle around the main hall as they chanted and tapped bowl chimes. They were creating sacred energy that would bless the temple and honor its 500-year-old existence. It also was setting the stage for its future.

The second part was very interesting. In a booming voice, the current priest called out the names of all the main priests from the temple’s inception until his recently deceased father. In so doing, he was thanking them and also asking for their protection and guidance for the next half century and beyond. He wore bright orange during that part of the service.

We had a short break and then the third part began. It was to be a “debate”, as Izumi called it. But actually, the visiting priests asked questions to the temple’s main priest, who was wearing a red orange robe under a black outer garment. Again, that was something I had never seen. 

Izumi and I were expecting complex Buddhist doctrines to be discussed. Instead, the questioners went up one by one. And with their strong, deep priestly voices asked such things as: “What sort of tempura do you prefer?” And “Do you ever sing in karaoke? What songs are you good at singing?”

After booming forth his question and getting an amused reply, the priest would turn and powerfully chant something to the effect of “I received a helpful answer,” as he walked back to his place. Then the next one went forward with just as much authority to ask his question.

For the final part of the ceremony, we were given a choice. We could stay where we were or go to the main temple. Of course, Izumi and I chose to change places. That way we could experience the event live.

For this a priest had come all the way from Hyogo Prefecture. It had taken him five hours to get to Sendai, and he would return that evening. Curiously, this man had studied Rakugo. That is the art of comic storytelling. He told us all about his history, in his trained Rakugo voice. 

It seems his family had been doctors for many generations. But his grandfather became a priest. His son and now his grandson followed him. But this man ventured far afield before settling into priesthood. That is, he was a Rakugo performer. 

He learned his skill well. He told us stories with dramatic changes in voice and gesture. Most were hilarious tales of naughty children being scolded. But he would interweave Buddhist teachings in among those daily life realities. Everyone loved it. One old woman laughed so loudly, the priest stopped and asked if she were having a good time, of course in Rakugo style. And at the end, he shook her hand and bowed his thanks to her.

This final part of the day was a sort of initiation ceremony for the new main priest. What a warm welcome and encouragement for everyone connected to the temple.

Izumi and I left feeling very relaxed and blessed. It was a long, but very good day. We are already planning our next meeting. But for now, what we just experienced was very rewarding indeed.

Love,

Anne