A Remarkable Man

Dear Family and Friends,

Yesterday I went on another adventurous hike. I had thought I would write about it specifically. But this morning I realized the leader of the group, Ajiki San, would be equally as interesting. He is an older man, in his mid-70s, and is always upbeat, but not silly or superficial.

There were only seven of us going yesterday. So, we went in two cars. Private transportation would save us time since we were going to Yamagata, the neighboring prefecture. The group consisted of four men and three women. I was fortunate to go in Ajiki San’s car, and even more so to sit next to him. That way I could hear his stories. He loves to talk and has a wealth of information.

On the trip going we discussed mostly about what to expect on the hike. Ajiki San also answered my many questions about the farms and villages we were passing. I am always eager to learn more about this Tohoku region, and he is always delighted to share his knowledge.

The hike began with us going part way up in a “gondola”. After we had walked through a small forest to reach the real climb, one woman said her knees hurt and would not go any further. 

“I’ll just stay here and wait,” she said. It was cold and windy with no place for her to shelter. So, one woman of the group, Otowa San, who had really been looking forward to the climb, opted to stay with her. Later, they would head back to the parking area where there were restaurants and shops.

“Anne, what will you do?” Otowa San asked. “I’m going with the guys,” I replied, maybe a bit selfishly. Years ago, when I first got to Japan and did not know about the rigors of hiking, I had done the same thing: opted out. But when the same woman, Otowa San, offered to stay with me, I flatly refused. Instead I spent the time drawing, luckily having taken along a sketch pad.

When that group returned, and we were heading to the cars, AJiki San said to me, “Why didn’t you give one of your drawings to Otowa San? She offered to stay with you.” I was surprised. Why should I do something like that, I wondered. “That is how we do things here in Tokoku”, he continued. I was still firmly locked in an individualistic mindset. Plus, I did not feel my work was good enough to even show anyone, so I did not give one to her.

Yesterday after waving good-bye to Otowa San and Suzuki San, the rest of us began to focus on getting up the mountain. As we ascended, the views became more gorgeous with a wide sweep of mountains and leaves just hinting change. 

Zaoh Mountain is famous for “Snow Monsters” in winter. They are the hundreds of insect-killed trees that become covered in snow. The fierce winds blow the powder into truly monstrous shapes. For us, though, they were only dark frames waiting to be beaten by gales and clothed in their winter garments.

Ajiki San was an excellent leader, as usual. One man was older and more frail than the rest of us, so needed more attention. Ajiki San went beside him, even as he told us about plants and the many changes he has witnessed over time. He has been hiking Tohoku mountains for over 50 years and knows them well.

The other members of the group are all white-collar professionals. A few are retired university professors, one still works for the city government. Ajiki San, on the other hand, is a builder and carpenter, in addition to a driver for a day service center for oldsters. In a hierarchical society like Japan, it says a lot that everyone in the hiking group looks up to Ajiki San with great respect. And Ajiki San remains forever humble, towards all others and towards the vast powers of Nature.

At almost the top of the mountain, we had a brief lunch and then headed off right away, no time to rest after eating. But ill luck seemed to follow us. About half way down, the left leg of the oldest, rather frail, man gave way. Ajiki San was right there, easing him into a sitting position. We all waited until the intense cramping seemed to have ended.

But no sooner had we taken a few steps than the man collapsed again. This time his brain went blank. Ajiki San, as always, was very calm and attentive, knowing just what to do. Another man raced down the mountain to get his car and another called the ladies below to let them know the story.

Eventually, the man came to and we all were brave enough to continue the very precarious trek to where our friend would meet us. I could not get my mind off of the situation at hand. But to my amazement, all three of the men were telling unrelated stories and laughing loudly.

Later, I asked Ajiki San about that. “Life is full of problems. So, we do what we can to solve them and then focus on a larger picture. It is important to always balance things. That is how life works,” he replied.

Later, on the drive home, after all we had been through, Ajiki felt he could trust Suzuki San and me enough to talk about himself. He had grown up in this rural area. It was right after WWII, so people were poor. But they were determined to build their lives back up from scratch. Ajiki San got through high school and became a carpenter and builder, the work he still does today.

When he was 55, he was hospitalized for several months. “That gave me lots of time to think,” he said. “I realized I wanted to do more with my life. So, as soon as I got out, I enrolled in Tohoku Open University. I love it. I learn so much there. And it is affordable. That is where I met the people in this hiking group. I could never be in contact with people like that if I had not stepped out of what I had done all my life.”

(As an aside, I should add that Ajiki San’s writing is truly refined. His script looks like works of art. I feel as if I write with my foot when I compare what he produces to my scrawl.)

He told us about working as a driver for a day service center for oldsters. “I am there regularly and when they need me. Tomorrow is a national holiday, so I will be there. Other drivers have families. I would not want them to be away from their kids.” 

Then he added, “You know who I truly admire doing this unseen job, being there whenever people need me? Garbage collectors. They are the base of society, are needed and used every day. What would our world be like without them?

“Now my life is well balanced. I work twice a day as a driver. I free-lance fixing houses. I do that when I want. I hike whenever I can. I have a hearing aid, so I am not cut off from life. My wife fusses that she does not like the Enka and Mood Music I play. So, I bought ear phones and we both are happy.

“Of course, life gives me problems. But I am a Tohoku man, so I shrug my shoulders and say, ‘Don’t mind’. I want harmony in situations, balance. That is what life is about. And I have, to at least try, to make it happen.”

A man I deeply admire, Ajiki San. Thank you. And I am looking forward to what unexpected surprises our next hike has to bring.

Love,

Anne